The Scottish Highlands from an Insider’s Perspective
Northern Highlands
I first started playing golf at Braemar when I was about four, with an old hickory-shafted niblick as my first club. Things have moved on a bit since then, and I’ve been lucky enough to play many of Scotland’s finest courses.
Heading north, playing Royal Dornoch feels more like a pilgrimage than simply another round of golf. Regularly ranked among the world’s top 20 courses, the Championship Course is one of my all-time favourites.
A nervy opening tee shot in front of gathered golfers is almost a given, so I was very relieved when my 4-iron sailed down the middle. My favourite hole? Probably the par-3 6th, Whinny Brae. Gorse bushes, a raised green surrounded by pot bunkers, and wonderful views out over the North Sea and up the coast into Sutherland and Caithness. Even when the weather gives you four seasons in a day, it is a special place. I’m already looking forward to my next visit and seeing the magnificent new clubhouse.
It may be a fair drive to reach Dornoch, but it is worth the extra hours up the A9. Add in the links at Golspie, Brora and Tain, and you have the makings of a brilliant few days of golf in the north of Scotland.
Inverness & the Moray Coast
Along the shores of the Moray Firth lies what I sometimes think of as the northern version of Scotland’s Golf Coast. I lived in Moray for several years and played many of the great courses along that stretch. There is so much available.
North of Inverness, Fortrose & Rosemarkie is a great 18 holes reaching out towards Chanonry Point, where you can sometimes see dolphins and porpoises leaping out in the firth while you play.
Back in the days when I was still good for camping, I stayed overnight at the campsite next door before making the most of one of those long Scottish summer days. An early start, a long putt dropped on the first green, and I thought, “This is fun.” About 16 hours later, I had completed 72 holes and enjoyed every one of them.
Close to Inverness Airport is Cabot Highlands. I first played the Castle Stuart course with some work colleagues, and what a great round we had. I’m itching to get back up and play the new Old Petty course as well.
There are some terrific holes along the coastline and now a very enjoyable 36 holes on offer. The lovely Art Deco-style clubhouse overlooks the courses and has everything you need, and the food was wonderful. My favourite hole at Castle Stuart is the par-3 11th, where it is usually a wedge played towards the sea to a well-guarded green.
Heading further east, the next stop is Nairn Golf Club, with a great pedigree and some wonderful holes. My playing partners that day included some of King Charles’ school contemporaries. I am sworn to secrecy!
I managed to stay out of the bunkers and made the most of some glorious weather. The Championship Course has a particularly strong finishing stretch from the 14th through to the 18th.
One of my favourite courses in the area, and somewhere I was fortunate enough to be a member, is Hopeman Golf Club, about an hour east of Inverness. It may not be as well known as some of its neighbours, but it is a cracking course.
The par-3 12th, the Prieshach, may be short, but it is certainly enjoyable. The back nine in particular is something special, with some great holes sitting above the Moray Firth and demanding a few committed shots. I love the 16th, even though I’ve rarely managed to get on in two!
Before you reach Lossiemouth, Covesea Links is a cracking little nine-hole course hidden down a track beside the beach. Just turn up and have some fun. It is not long, but it certainly keeps you on your toes.
The next stop is Moray Golf Club in Lossiemouth, which has two excellent courses. The Old Course has one of the best finishing holes in the country, and you may also get some very close-up views of Typhoons and Poseidon aircraft as they fly over the course towards neighbouring RAF Lossiemouth.
You will not be disappointed if you venture north for a week of golf. I’ve only scratched the surface of what is available up here, and that is probably part of the appeal. There is always another course, another stretch of coastline and another reason to make the journey north.
I’m certainly looking forward to making tracks for another trip soon.
